i said a long time ago that i wasn't going to post about europe, and there was a very good reason for that, but i do want to say this one thing. i was clearing out some of my stuff just now, and i found the notebook i was keeping at the time, (sidebar: yen, i notice you did the same in cambodia -- i saw those pages unintentionally while i was doing the accounts. did not read anything, i swear), and on the 5th of June, 2004, in Beauvais airport, i had this to say:

...Feeling bloated and v. thirsty despite earlier rehydration efforts. $ talk - beware what set heart on. Airport - sketch. Waiting room = tent. Boarding soon

i wish i remembered that conversation more clearly.